Musings from Mangiacake: An Introduction to Lago di Como

I’m going to set things straight from the start. I have yet to have a Signore Clooney run-in, though I did bump into Signore Bruhl in the Swiss Alps last week. (For those of you not in the know, Daniel Bruhl co-starred with Brad Pitt in Inglorious Basterds. And we all know that Brad and George are besties. So, technically, there's now just three degrees of separation between me and George. Not bad for three weeks on Lago di Como, si?)

In all seriousness, I can’t believe it’s already been three weeks since I landed at Milan Malpensa. To sum it up thus far: Bel Paese + Bon Appetito = Bella Vita.

While I haven’t travelled far beyond the lake, I truly believe I’m living in one of Italy’s best-kept secrets. Gera Lario, Seba’s hometown, doesn’t even get a mention in the eight pages dedicated to Lago di Como in my Lonely Planet Guidebook. Fine by me!

Located in the Alto Lario at the northern tip of the lake (shaped like an upside-down letter Y), Gera Lario (pop. 1,011) is nestled in the Rhaetian Alps, hemmed in by wildflowers, and steep, wooded hills. The area is a Mecca for windsurfers and kite boarders, and, as such, attracts Swiss, German, and Austrian water sport enthusiasts; but, for the most part, these folks are permanent summertime campsite residents. For all intents and purposes, the town is essentially tourist-free. This, my friends, is the real deal.

View from Seba's house, Gera Lario

Gera Lario

View from the pier, Gera Lario

Seba (and swans!), Gera Lario

A swan! (Yes, Gera Lario truly is this charming.)

Seba’s family is equally charming. His mother Rosanna, father Gabriele, and brothers Stefano and Niccolo, are all gorgeous, and—despite the language barrier—have made me feel right at home. Especially when it comes to gorging myself on anything and everything from the fridge and pantry.

As predicted, I’ve been tripping on Italian food ever since I arrived. From my morning cappuccino to my lunchtime pane e formaggi to my evening gelati, every meal has been a revelation. The regional cuisine of Lombardy is less about pasta and pizza and more about burro (butter). And polenta. And risotto. And… And… And… And those are just the things we (think we) know about back home. Local specialties also include missoltini (sun-dried fish from the lake, cured in salt and bay leaves), bresaola (air-cured beef), and pizzoccheri della Valtellina (buckwheat pasta ribbons with wilted cabbage, potatoes, and mountain cheeses). 

My first cappuccino, in Cernobbio

Homemade gnocchi al cucchiaio

Grilled lavarelli

So, I’m not in the least bit surprised that George decided to cash in on the Bella Vita ticket and take up residence here. (Or hereabouts. He lives just down the way in Laglio. Close enough!) The lake—with its grand, Liberty-style villas and cobblestoned villages, with each pastel-coloured house and town prettier than the last—is one of the most beautiful places I have ever laid eyes on. And that's saying something!

View from Cernobbio

Lenno

View from Olgiasca

Dorio

Villa Monasterio, Varenna

Villa Monasterio, Varenna

View from Dosso Del Liro (It's stunning on a rainy day, too!)

So while I've seen a little, I haven't seen a whole lot. Seba has spent most of my three weeks here working, allowing me time to bask in both the Italian sunshine and Rosanna’s language and culinary instructions. From learning Italian to cooking tiramisu to gardening zucchini, eggplant, and tomatoes, Seba's mother is showing me how to be a real donna italiana, poco a poco.

Cultural insensitivity 101, Italian for Beginners coursebook

(Bought in Australia, NOT Rosanna's doing!)