Sunday 7 July 2013

To Canada, With Love (From Switzerland!)

Last week, Seba and I took a day-drive through the Italian and Swiss Alps, and celebrated Canada’s birthday in (Livigno) style in the mountains.

After a couple of hours’ drive through the Valtellina, a region carpeted with vineyards (and plenty of factories closing up shop—eek), and along the scenic Foscagno Pass, we arrived in Livigno. Considered Europe’s highest inhabited town, Livigno is a traditional alpine village known for its duty-free status. I always thought duty-free shopping was restricted to airports and cruise ports, so I didn’t know what to expect; but, sure enough, Italian VAT has never been applied here. While there are some restrictions on tobacco products and alcohol, our sunnies were cheap as. Fuel is also half the price here than it is in the rest of the country, meaning we actually ended up saving some cash by taking this road trip! 


Italian Alps


Foscagno Pass, Italy


 Just outside of Livigno, Italy


New sunnies!

After an unhealthy dose of pizza and pizzoccheri, Seba and I crossed the border into Switzerland via the Munt la Schera Tunnel, and drove through the Swiss National Park. Founded in 1914, it is the oldest national park in the Alps and central Europe, and the largest protected area in Switzerland. I was also surprised to learn that it is the country’s only National Park. Just one National Park? In all of Switzerland? 


At the Italian-Switzerland border


Swiss National Park


Swiss National Park


A chamois (a goat-antelope hybrid thing), Swiss National Park

Though I've never been to Canada's parks out west, I imagine they look a little something like this, and so I felt as though I was fulfilling my patriotic duty by being here on July 1. If only the Molson Canadian Beer Fridge could have found its way to me there and then!


Swiss National Park

Afterwards, we drove through the Engadin, weaving our way through the valley's time-warped and sgraffito-ed villages, before meeting Seba's friend Franco, near St. Moritz, for a drink.


Wildflowers and mountains in the Engadin


With Franco, in the Engadin

Before our drive down the Maloja Pass into Chiavenna in Italy, we pulled over at a lookout to snap some picts. We were directed to the back of the parking area, behind three identical vintage Jags and a very, very old man in a Hugh Hefner smoking jacket, and informed we had stumbled on to the set of Ich Und Kaminsky, a German production starring DANIEL BRUHL (who I did lock eyes with, but sadly, do not have a picture of). A very, very happy Canada day, indeed!


On the set of Ich Und Kaminsky, with DANIEL BRUHL

Saturday 6 July 2013

Musings from Mangiacake: An Introduction to Lago di Como


I’m going to set things straight from the start. I have yet to have a Signore Clooney run-in, though I did bump into Signore Bruhl in the Swiss Alps last week. (For those of you not in the know, Daniel Bruhl co-starred with Brad Pitt in Inglorious Basterds. And we all know that Brad and George are besties. So, technically, there's now just three degrees of separation between me and George. Not bad for three weeks on Lago di Como, si?)

In all seriousness, I can’t believe it’s already been three weeks since I landed at Milan Malpensa. To sum it up thus far: Bel Paese + Bon Appetito = Bella Vita.

While I haven’t travelled far beyond the lake, I truly believe I’m living in one of Italy’s best-kept secrets. Gera Lario, Seba’s hometown, doesn’t even get a mention in the eight pages dedicated to Lago di Como in my Lonely Planet Guidebook. Fine by me!

Located in the Alto Lario at the northern tip of the lake (shaped like an upside-down letter Y), Gera Lario (pop. 1,011) is nestled in the Rhaetian Alps, hemmed in by wildflowers, and steep, wooded hills. The area is a Mecca for windsurfers and kite boarders, and, as such, attracts Swiss, German, and Austrian water sport enthusiasts; but, for the most part, these folks are permanent summertime campsite residents. For all intents and purposes, the town is essentially tourist-free. This, my friends, is the real deal.



View from Seba's house, Gera Lario


Gera Lario




View from the pier, Gera Lario



Seba (and swans!), Gera Lario



A swan! (Yes, Gera Lario truly is this charming.)


Seba’s family is equally charming. His mother Rosanna, father Gabriele, and brothers Stefano and Niccolo, are all gorgeous, and—despite the language barrier—have made me feel right at home. Especially when it comes to gorging myself on anything and everything from the fridge and pantry.

As predicted, I’ve been tripping on Italian food ever since I arrived. From my morning cappuccino to my lunchtime pane e formaggi to my evening gelati, every meal has been a revelation. The regional cuisine of Lombardy is less about pasta and pizza and more about burro (butter). And polenta. And risotto. And… And… And… And those are just the things we (think we) know about back home. Local specialties also include missoltini (sun-dried fish from the lake, cured in salt and bay leaves), bresaola (air-cured beef), and pizzoccheri della Valtellina (buckwheat pasta ribbons with wilted cabbage, potatoes, and mountain cheeses). 


My first cappuccino, in Cernobbio



Homemade gnocchi al cucchiaio



Grilled lavarelli

So, I’m not in the least bit surprised that George decided to cash in on the Bella Vita ticket and take up residence here. (Or hereabouts. He lives just down the way in Laglio. Close enough!) The lake—with its grand, Liberty-style villas and cobblestoned villages, with each pastel-coloured house and town prettier than the last—is one of the most beautiful places I have ever laid eyes on. And that's saying something!


View from Cernobbio



Lenno



View from Olgiasca



Dorio



Villa Monasterio, Varenna



Villa Monasterio, Varenna



View from Dosso Del Liro (It's stunning on a rainy day, too!)


So while I've seen a little, I haven't seen a whole lot. Seba has spent most of my three weeks here working, allowing me time to bask in both the Italian sunshine and Rosanna’s language and culinary instructions. From learning Italian to cooking tiramisu to gardening zucchini, eggplant, and tomatoes, Seba's mother is showing me how to be a real donna italiana, poco a poco.


Cultural insensitivity 101, Italian for Beginners coursebook
(Bought in Australia, NOT Rosanna's doing!)